Halfway through the buzz and thrill that fashion week in the four design capitals of the world put forward, the artistry and culture that Filipino designers present to the runway have never been a hit and miss to the global audience. A balance of sustainability and sophistication is what keeps the Filipino design tradition alive in the annual surge of local designers bringing their works of art to the international stage. Bear in mind these names as they step up to the game to share their fresh collections and their narratives in-between onto further tailoring their name in the global spectrum.
After coming out at the top in the London Emerging Designer competition as well as in Britain’s Top Designer, John Herrera has no plans of going lax on his laurels. With just two years into the launch of his brand, he has refined much of his creative philosophy of drawing inspiration from local trademarks in creating progressive designs in his collections, further taking the fashion world by storm in his Armada S/S 2018 show in Freemasons’ Hall, London. His digital textile printing technique with Epson produced a striking 30-piece collection pervaded with a couture method to silhouette and construction. The line was predominated by a palette of black, white, and red in forms of cocktail dresses, gowns, and stately cut tailoring. Influenced by cartography and the country’s Spanish colonial past, nipped-in waists and corsetry embellished with crystal accents and ruffle were an added drama to the monochromatic pieces. Without doubt, the new collection marks the Herrera woman as a commander of attention from those surrounding her.
Dog days are never over with an Aranaz bag. Spearheaded by mother-daughter trio since the founding of the label in 1999, Becky, Amina, and Rosanna Aranaz pay tribute to the life lived in leisure and in summer days. Their fashion accessories impart accents of exotic and artisanship which provides the modern woman a breakout from the usual, fast-paced lifestyle through bringing native artistry into relevancy and into the design realm. Having fully refined their classic coalesce of polished and artisanal, no doubt it still has been patronized by the fashion-forward. Their vision of renewing the sense of appreciation for traditional Filipino crafts radiates through their Premiere Classe S/S 2018 trade exhibitions in Paris. The definitive feminine touch and nature-inspired embellishments, fused with vibrant embroidery and tropical themes of wood-carved florals and foliage, make local artistry a clear-cut marvel in the shows.
Carl Jan Cruz
At only 25 years old, it seems as if Carl Jan Cruz is already ahead of the rest and ready to make a mark on the global runway. After his bachelor’s degree in the London College of Fashion and stints at respected fashion houses Celine, Vivien Ramsay, Melissa Dizon for Eairth, and various local brands, Carl Jan Cruz took the challenge and decided to establish a label under his own name. From then on, he did not disappoint and his Milan and Paris Fashion Week S/S 2018 collection was enough attestation. It serves as a visual memoir of his Filipino and British heritage and as an extension of his Pambahay, Pang-okasyon, and Pang-alis lines which sets his aesthetics on the front line. Carl Jan Cruz’s unparalleled artistry manifests in his experimental textiles. Hand-sewn oversized coats, reversible shirts with raw edging and everted stitching, crepe fabric and silk linens, tech bonded denim with canvas, and a variegated dress put together by press-wrinkled circular panels imitating a trapo definitely left the crowd in awe. Avoiding to set down a specific niche, Carl Jan Cruz promises a brand that people will find connection and familiarity in his creations.
Under the creative direction of Christian Edward Dalogaog, CHED Studio solidifies its artisanal approach and delicate craftsmanship to fusing arts, history, and pop culture in sending their pieces down the runway for Milan Fashion Week. The seven year-old brand was brought into being with the release of their capsule collection of daywear and evening pieces preordered by private customers back in 2011. Since then, more doors were opened to the label, including their collection for Milan Fashion Week S/S 2018. Drawing inspiration from Wong Kar Wai’s Chungking Express, their fresh and breathable apparel puts the CHED woman in the warm summer days with textiles such as silk linens and organic cotton. Embroidered tropical features and animal figures, finely embellished with beading, exhibits the local artistry which beguiles the multinational audience. CHED Studio has its eyes on producing clothes that melds local handiwork with authentic artworks, making them a definite standout from the crowd.
Featured image credit: Danny Woodward for Fashion Scout UK